January 16, 2014

Surfers and a Direct Swell

The swell came direct west with big sets.
 A favorite reef to many local surfers puts up a test .
Its time to be tested.
Certain people live for and wait for these days ,for some its why they live here.
 When it happens life has to be adjusted, some skip work, some pass of babies to in-laws, daily duties are erased from thought...Fever takes control.
Cold..not at all, heart-rate, butterflys ,and stamina paddling see to you warm.
Above all Smiles, a sense pleasures,humility and stoke are shared amongst friends that share a passion.
 Surfers are unique.

                                             Quote of the day..."Lenghless"

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