Overall this year of Covid and lockdowns produced extremely poor conditions for surfing around the Lahinch area and fitness and focus are hard things to come bye with age ... if you allow that sort of thing.
Turning 50 and being a Surfer for 40 years now..I aint done yet
So with weather patterns changing and waves starting to break in any conditions, Myself and Dexter took to the Ocean ..we knew that the hard yards of paddling and stamina conditioning had to take place so we surfed daily or as much as possible in any conditions through Oct/Nov, the focus was to be ready when the good swells came.
Come the end of November I feel a Surfer once more, I find im once again competing with myself, Ive spent time with friends and laughed, I breathe better, time slows down and becomes calm. I sleep well.
A reminder of an old saying...Only a Surfer knows the Feeling!